IT WAS A TURTLE, NOT A SURFBOARD SKEG (FIN) ! |
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The TURTLE realization came to me 10 days after my surfing accident. Under the wave I must have collided with a Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle (Honu). It felt like hitting a brick wall, underwater ! These turtles weigh from 200 - 400 lbs and I must have slashed my head on the edge of it's shell. It's very common to have these beautiful turtles swimming in the waves and reefs at Ho'okipa Beach Park, which is a protected marine reserve. Often you take off on the face of a wave, fully committed in the drop, then a massive turtle shell bubbles up to the surface and you end up trying to ride over it without wiping out. It's happened to me many times surfing at Ho'okipa and you end up dinging your surfboard or worse, loosening your skeg (fin). But it doesn't hurt the turtle, they probably just love the nice little scratch on their back.
Mahalo for the TURTLE enlightenment !! |
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Last Sunday evening when I was paddling out on a 4 - 5 foot day at Ho'okipa, Maui I dove into a cresting wave and slashed my head open on what I thought was a surfboard skeg (fin). But I couldn't figure out why there where no surfers to call out to for help, and with a big set coming in I knew instinctively that I had to just turn and catch the first wave back to the beach, then straight to the ER at Maui Memorial Hospital for staples and stitches.
As much I love the experience of having these ancient creatures popping up their funny little heads right next to you (kinda like ET) they are however becoming very abundant because of their endangered protection statis. Which is a little hazadous for us surfing, but that's life and we all need to protect and enjoy our Hono (Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle). I feel very blessed to be living here on Maui and now I'm feeling so much better without a headful of staples.